Moving out of Ploumagoar AirBnB today, we headed to Saint Malo, a northern coastal town in Bretagne. Ploumagoar was our first AirBnB experience and it was a fantastic one. It’s a quiet town but served as good base for our travel to Pont Melvez and Guingamp. We enjoyed getting fresh cheap baguette daily from town and cooked our daily dinner in the new kitchen. As we drove away, the resident tabby cat, who had held daily vigil outside the kitchen window, escorted us out.
Approaching Saint Malo, we saw sailboats amidst the blue sea against the blue sky. The weather god was smiling. We muddled through the streets looking for parking outside the city wall then walked through one of the gates. It seemed medieval Brittany was raided quite frequently, large towns are usually walled with narrow pedestrianized streets prohibiting car entry. Saint Malo is very touristy at first glance. Restaurants and shops and bakeries everywhere. We bought chocolate taffy, and shared a Breton delicacy, kouign amann. Chewy and buttery and sweet. Overrated! We trekked up to the impressive ramparts surrounding the city and admired the view. Saint Malo’s claim to fame, besides its gorgeous setting, is being the birthplace of Jacques Cartier, he who discovered Canada. It was worthy to note afterwards that the town was mostly destroyed during WWII and was rebuilt later. Greystone buildings stood shoulder to shoulder with shops on the ground floor and living areas on upper floors. It was nice to have pedestrian area only to wander around without the noise and threats from cars. Walking around we overheard just French conversations due to it being late in tourists season. This was true for all the places we visited in Bretagne this trip. After 3+ hours, tired feet brought us back to the car and we drove south to Dinan.
Petit Bé of Saint Malo